{"id":138,"date":"2023-01-12T22:52:07","date_gmt":"2023-01-12T20:52:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/la-darnoire.com\/garden\/?p=138"},"modified":"2023-02-26T13:12:17","modified_gmt":"2023-02-26T11:12:17","slug":"hugelkultur","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/la-darnoire.com\/garden\/2023\/01\/12\/hugelkultur\/","title":{"rendered":"HUGELKULTUR"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

ENGLISH<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Winter is the time to prepare the garden for next season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Without going to extremes, I like to plan a few things for my garden, including methods that I have not yet used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For next year, I had a great desire to start some hugelkultur which is a type of no-dig raised bed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The term hugelkultur is a German word that simply means mound or hill cultivation. The technique is said to have existed in Eastern European countries for centuries, but it was an Austrian, Sepp Holzer, a specialist in natural agriculture and permaculture, who developed the method in the 1960s. Paul Weathon, an American permaculture author and Holzer’s disciple, helped develop the popularity of the method in many Anglo-Saxon countries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, Hugelkultur is being adopted by more and more gardeners who are happy with the results it brings. But there are also a number of detractors who believe that the method is not valid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is true that the place where you live and the type of soil you work with have a very important influence on the construction of this self-fertilising mound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Generally, these mounds do not work so well in the driest regions such as the south of France. But there are exceptions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They are constructed with dead wood, branches, grass clippings , manure (if you have some), compost, etc, covered with soil. You can even put seaweeds in them for those who live near the sea. Over time this will create the fertilizer needed for the crops that will be grown on the mound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fact is that there is a lot of dead wood on the property around the garden. I thought that the forest wouldn’t mind if I cleaned up a bit and stole some of the small fallen rotten tree trunks to make my mound. I have to say that we have young birches that tend to make a great game of \u201cpick-up-sticks\u201d as soon as there is a bit of wind. And then my husband had to cut up a rather large aspen that had fallen on the communal road, but which was already quite rotten and no longer suitable for firewood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So here we are, we brought the pieces of aspen, I got some pieces of birch and I started to build my hugel bed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I realise that I’m going to need a lot more wood, but that’s okay because I still have fallen birch trees that are just waiting to be collected and I have the entire winter to build my mound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But why would I want to make a mound given the work involved and why do it in winter?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I’m going to use elements which are all around the wider garden, and I know that self-fertilising mound cultivation minimises watering because the wood in the mound, acting as a sponge when it rains enough, retains the moisture. I have already tried to do a type of hugelkultur by putting dead wood with my compost in old barrels where I planted strawberries. They definitely need less watering than those planted directly in the garden. As we are likely to have more and more droughts in the next few years, it seems like a good idea to try hugelkultur, just to save water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And the mound should attract lots of insects which will enjoy nibbling the organic matter it contains, increasing the biodiversity of the garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then winter is a quieter time for gardeners, so I have time to build my mound without rushing. I also want to take advantage of this period, which is more damp (especially in Sologne), so that the wood of my mound can absorb water as I build it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As I mentioned earlier, I have everything I need to make the bed, so why not try it?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And then, if I manage to make a mound high enough, it means I will not have to bend down so much to tend the plants, a good thing for my back…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beware, self-fertilizing mounds is a method that is based on the decomposition of organic matter over the long term, so if you want to try this method, don’t think that you will have a really productive mound during the first few years of its installation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also, before you start building a mound, especially if it is high enough (large ones can be made up to 6 feet high), it is imperative to understand that the landscape will be transformed by its placement. It risks blocking the view and it is therefore preferable to put it where it will not be a nuisance. And then you have to study its orientation…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What if it doesn’t work?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well, I will still have taken advantage of the physical exercise in the garden at a time when we are often in great need of inspiration to do something outside, in connection with nature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

FRAN\u00c7AIS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019hiver, c\u2019est le moment de pr\u00e9parer le jardin pour l\u2019ann\u00e9e suivante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sans virer dans l\u2019extr\u00eame, j\u2019aime bien planifier quelques \u00e9l\u00e9ments pour mon jardin, ce qui inclus des m\u00e9thodes que je n\u2019ai pas encore utilis\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour l\u2019ann\u00e9e prochaine, j\u2019avais une grosse envie de me lancer \u00e0 faire de l\u2019hugelkultur – en fran\u00e7ais, de la culture sur butte autofertile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le terme hugelkultur est un mot allemand qui veut tout simplement dire culture en monticule ou en butte. Cette technique aurait exist\u00e9 dans les pays de l\u2019Est de l\u2019Europe depuis des si\u00e8cles, mais c\u2019est un autrichien, Sepp Holzer, sp\u00e9cialiste en agriculture naturelle et en permaculture qui, dans les ann\u00e9es 1960, a d\u00e9velopp\u00e9 la m\u00e9thode. Paul Weathon un am\u00e9ricain, auteur en permaculture et disciple de Holzer a aid\u00e9 \u00e0 d\u00e9velopper la popularit\u00e9 de la m\u00e9thode dans de nombreux pays anglo-saxons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aujourd\u2019hui l\u2019hugelkultur est adopt\u00e9e par de plus en plus de jardiniers qui sont satisfaits des r\u00e9sultats qu\u2019elle apporte. Mais il existe aussi une quantit\u00e9 ind\u00e9niable de d\u00e9tracteurs qui jugent que la m\u00e9thode n\u2019est pas valable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il est vrai que l\u2019endroit ou on vit et le type de sol avec lequel on va travailler ont une influence des plus importante dans la construction d\u2019une butte autofertile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

G\u00e9n\u00e9ralement, ces buttes ne fonctionnent pas si bien, dans les r\u00e9gions les plus secs comme le sud de la France par exemple. Mais il y a quand m\u00eame des exceptions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Elles sont construites avec du bois morts, des branchages, de l\u2019herbe, du fumier (si on en a), du compost, etc, recouverts de terre. On peut m\u00eame y mettre des algues pour ceux qui habitent pr\u00e8s de la mer. Avec le temps cela cr\u00e9era l’engrais n\u00e9cessaire pour les cultures qui seront faites sur la butte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le fait est que j\u2019ai beaucoup d\u2019espace dans mon jardin et qu\u2019il y a tout un paquet de bois mort sur la propri\u00e9t\u00e9 autour du jardin. Je me suis dit que la for\u00eat ne m\u2019en voudrait pas trop si je faisais un peu de m\u00e9nage et que je lui piquais quelques petits troncs morts d\u00e9j\u00e0 un peu pourris pour construire ma butte. Il faut dire que nous avons de jeunes bouleaux qui ont tendance \u00e0 faire un grand jeu de mikados d\u00e8s qu\u2019il y a un peu de vent. Et puis mon mari a d\u00fb d\u00e9couper un tremble assez gros qui \u00e9tait tomb\u00e9 sur le chemin communale, mais qui \u00e9tant d\u00e9j\u00e0 bien pourri, n\u2019\u00e9tait plus bon pour faire du bois de chauffage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Alors voila, on a amen\u00e9 les morceaux de tremble, j\u2019ai r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9 des bouts de bouleau tout aussi endommag\u00e9 que le tremble et j\u2019ai attaqu\u00e9 la construction de ma butte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je me rend compte qu\u2019il va me falloir bien plus de bois, mais ce n\u2019est pas grave car j\u2019ai encore des bouleaux qui ne demandent qu\u2019a \u00eatre r\u00e9colt\u00e9s et j\u2019ai tout l\u2019hiver pour monter la chose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais pourquoi vouloir faire une butte vu le travail que \u00e7a demande et pourquoi la faire en hiver ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je vais utiliser les mat\u00e9riaux qui sont tout autour de mon jardin, et je sais que la culture sur butte autofertile minimise l\u2019arrosage car le bois dans la butte, agissant comme une \u00e9ponge quand il pleut suffisamment, garde l\u2019humidit\u00e9. J\u2019ai d\u2019ailleurs d\u00e9j\u00e0 essay\u00e9 de faire un type de hugelkultur en mettant du bois mort avec mon compost, dans de vieux barils ou j\u2019ai plant\u00e9 des fraisiers. Ils ont d\u00e9finitivement besoin de moins d’arrosage que ceux plant\u00e9s directement dans le jardin. Vu que nous devrions avoir de plus en plus de s\u00e9cheresses dans les ann\u00e9es a venir, essayer la culture sur butte, rien que pour \u00e9conomiser de l\u2019eau, me semble une bonne id\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et puis la butte devrait attirer plein d\u2019insectes qui vont pouvoir se d\u00e9lecter des mat\u00e9riaux qu\u2019elle va contenir, augmentant la biodiversit\u00e9 du jardin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En suite l\u2019hiver est un moment plus calme pour les jardiniers, donc j\u2019ai le temps de construire ma butte sans me presser. Je veux aussi profiter de cette p\u00e9riode, plus humide (surtout en Sologne) pour que le bois de ma butte se gorge d\u2019eau alors que je la construis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Comme je l\u2019ai indiqu\u00e9 pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment, j\u2019ai tout ce qu\u2019il faut pour faire ce type de jardinage, donc pourquoi ne pas essayer ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et puis, si j\u2019arrive \u00e0 faire une butte assez haute, je n’aurai pas \u00e0 me baisser autant pour m\u2019occuper de mes plantations, une bonne chose pour mon dos…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Attention, la culture sur butte autofertile est une m\u00e9thode qui est bas\u00e9e sur la d\u00e9composition des mati\u00e8res \u00e0 tr\u00e8s long terme, donc si vous voulez essayer cette m\u00e9thode, ne pensez pas que vous allez avoir une butte vraiment productive les premi\u00e8res ann\u00e9es de son installation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

De plus avant de se lancer dans la construction d\u2019une butte, surtout si elle est assez haute (on peut en faire des grosses qui font jusqu\u2019\u00e0 1m80 de haut), il est imp\u00e9ratif de comprendre que le paysage sera transform\u00e9 par son implantation. Elle risque de bloquer la vue et il est donc pr\u00e9f\u00e9rable de la mettre l\u00e0 o\u00f9 elle ne sera pas g\u00eanante. Et puis il faut \u00e9tudier son orientation…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et si \u00e7a ne fonctionnait pas ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n


Et bien j\u2019aurai quand m\u00eame profit\u00e9 de l\u2019exercice physique au jardin \u00e0 une p\u00e9riode o\u00f9 on a souvent un gros besoin d\u2019inspiration pour faire quelques chose en ext\u00e9rieur, en lien avec la nature. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

ENGLISH Winter is the time to prepare the garden for next season. Without going to extremes, I like to plan a few things for my garden, including methods that I have not yet used. For next year, I had a great desire to start some hugelkultur which is a type of no-dig raised bed. The … <\/p>\n

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